This guide is made specifically for this product.

Building Guide

I. Required Tools

1. Soldering iron.
2. Heat gun or hair dryer.
3. Hot glue gun.
4. Small flat head screwdriver.
5. Box cutter.
6. Flush cutter pliers.
7. Safety goggles.

II. V2 Changes

In December 2025, we started rolling out a new V2 design, which has 2 negative leads, as opposed to just one on V1. This design change was made in order to improve reliability and long-term durability by adding a second redundant contact point for the negative terminal of the battery, ensuring consistent contact.

This change was not significant enough to warrant an updated build video, but here are some tips to help familiarize you with this change:

• Both negative copper leads must connect to the same negative pad (center).
• Since there are now two wires connected to the same pad instead of one, please ensure that there is sufficient solder on them. It should look like one big "blob" of solder (see photo below).
• Make sure your soldering iron is as hot as possible, and make sure to use enough flux. These two variables will help your solder flow as smoothly as possible.
• The bigger center "blob" of solder means that it may be easier to short it into the left and right smaller "blobs". Please make sure they are not shorted to one another or else the device will not power on.
• It is generally easier to solder the left and right (positive) terminals first, then move onto the center negative pad. Make sure to apply a generous amount of flux to the center pad and tips of the two wires, and load your (very hot) soldering iron's tip with a lot of solder. Hold the tinned tip for a few seconds to the central pad, while avoiding the left and right ones, and the solder should flow onto the pad and wires on its own, and form a nice, round "blob".
  
• While soldering, make sure to hold down the copper wire in place using the tip of a screwdriver or tweezers, as seen in the video, to ensure a solid connection.
• This is quite a delicate procedure. If you are not confident in your soldering abilities, consider purchasing the pre-built version.
• This is what V2 should look like after everything is soldered properly:

     

III. Build Video

IV. Troubleshooting & Tips

• If you find the speaker volume to be too low, try rotating the speaker magnet in place and testing the speaker volume until you find the "sweet spot". This is not always the same orientation as it was before the modification.
• If you break one of the pads, please refer to minute 8:26 in the video for a workaround.
• Using a multimeter in continuity mode, after bridging the top two circular pads as seen in minute 15:58 in the video, the left and right copper wires should test positive for continuity.
• Using a multimeter in continuity mode, the middle copper wire and any one of the ground points seen here should test positive for continuity.
• Using a multimeter in resistance mode, probing the middle copper wire and either left or right wire should indicate a resistance of 3 MΩ or more. If the resistance is too low, the AirTag will not power on, which indicates a short circuit. In that case:
• Ensure that the two top circular pads seen in minute 15:58 in the video are not bridged with the bottom pad.
• Ensure that the three connections to the copper wires are all isolated and no bridges are present.
• Verify the rest of the board for damage or accidental bridging.